Cappadocia!

When I went to Turkey, my friends and I spent two days in Goreme/Cappadocia. (Cappadocia is pronounced "Kap-uh-doh-keeyuh.") We flew from Istanbul to Kayseri and then received a van ride (from a young guy that we later nicknamed "The Blemish") into Goreme. While we were in the van ride, this young guy convinced us to hire him as a guide. His English-speaking skills were adequate when it came to bartering tour prices, and we eventually took him up on his offer. However, we learned soon afterward that he didn't actually speak English very well. His "tour" was a little ridiculous, and he didn't really understand the questions that we asked about the area. (I remember he particularly had trouble with any question that began with "How long...") Anyhow, we felt like this tour guide was the one sore spot (or "blemish") of our trip, which accounts for his nickname. I can't even remember his actual name.

The Blemish offered to pose for a picture at one point, so Zillah obliged

That being said, I did like a couple of the things that The Blemish showed to us. His mother owns an art gallery, and it was fun to see her painting in the Ottoman water-painting technique. We also got to see a pottery-making demonstration in Nevshir, which was also located in the same little cave as the Hair Museum (which was so gross!).

 One good thing came out of our "tour" with The Blemish. We met a man named Mehmet when The Blemish dropped us off to look at a rock-cut complex. Mehmet owned a shop at the base of the complex, and he climbed up and took us around. He was a very nice, sincere person and we were happy to have met him (photo removed)

Cappadocia and the surrounding area is one of the most interesting places that I have visited, geologically-speaking. The climate and unusual formations reminded us a little bit of Southern Utah, but there was still something very unique about the area. The "fairy chimneys" and other formations are the result of volcanic eruptions. However, the resulting landscape is not entirely the work of nature. Since the cliffs are made of soft rock, for many centuries people would carve different dwellings and churches out of the rock. There even are rock-cut restaurants and cave hotels in the area, but we didn't visit any of those.

The Open Air Museum in Goreme used to be a monastery complex which was in use between the 10th and 12th centuries.

Here is one of the paintings from a church in the monastery complex. One of the figures below is probably Saint George, and it is thought that the scorpion-like creature is a depiction of the dragon which George fought.

On our second day in Goreme/Cappadocia, we took a tour and hiked through the Ilhara Valley, which is the deepest gorge in Anatolia. We also visited the monastery caves in Selime and the Underground Museum. There were some really interesting people on our tour, like James and Liz, a retired couple from Australia who spend every other year traveling. There also was another professor named James, who was really outgoing and talkative. We also had an Italian family in our group, and it was fun to listen to them and try to pick out Italian phrases that I remember from college.

One of my only photos of the Underground Museum. That is our tour guide on the left (not The Blemish, but a very competent and professional guide).

 The Ilhara Valley gorge

 It was really hot at the Ilhara Valley, but I wore a sweater as much as possible to save my skin from sunburns.

Here is one of the paintings from a church in the Ilhara Valley. Once again, the painting is an image of George and the Dragon, although this time the dragon looks more like a snake.

The monastery in Selime

It was really impressive to see the amount of carving that went into some of the monastery rooms. Superimposed arcades!

We finished this tour by visiting Pigeon Valley, which has a whole bunch of pigeon homes carved into the cliffside. Pigeons have historically been very useful to the Cappadocia area. In particular, pigeon droppings are used for fuel and fertilizer. This tree in Pigeon Valley was decorated with the "evil eye" charm, which is supposed to bring good luck.

While we were in the area, we stayed at the most charming place. I would recommend the Köse Pension in Goreme to anyone who visits the area. The place is run by a Scottish woman who has the most adorable baby. And their garden is very whimsical and lovely.

Far Country Lookout Hike

We haven't gone on a lot of hikes this summer, mostly because house and yard projects have taken up quite a bit of our extra time. However, I did want to write about one hike that we did earlier this month. I felt like the hike to Far Country Lookout (part of the Cougar Mountains Regional Wildland Park) was a great hike for a four-year old, and I'd recommend it to anyone with little kids. The hike was probably about three miles altogether, but it was relatively easy because the trails didn't change in elevation very much.

We started our hike at the Red Town Trailhead, and continued along the Red Town Trail and Meadow Restoration Project. We then took the Indian Trail to the Far Country Lookout. On the way back, we walked past Far Country Falls (which wasn't very impressive) and then continued back to the parking lot along the Wildside Trail. I liked that we could follow different trails to form a loop - it's nice to see different things both to-and-from the car.

Walking along the Red Town Trail

Just after the Meadow Restoration Project trail, we stopped to eat lunch next to some really large boulders

Far Country Lookout! The view would have been more impressive on a sunnier day, but it still was fun.

There are a lot of different hikes in Cougar Mountain Regional Wildland Park, and I've made it a personal goal that we will be able to hike all of them - although I know that Sam will need to get bigger before we do some of the longer hikes. So far, we've only done one other hike in the area, when we visited Coal Creek Falls. If anyone is interested in going on these hikes (or any of the other ones in the area), I would recommend that you download a map of the trails and trailheads beforehand.

The Best Thing About Life

Yesterday, Sam and I held hands as we walked away from a sandy beach shore. We had just spent a few hours playing in the water and walking on the sand at a beach park near our home. As we approached the car, Sam said to me, "Going to the beach is the best thing about life."

I might have felt the same way when I was four years old. And really, my own sentiments today aren't that different. For me, going to fun places or doing fun things with someone you love is the best thing about life.

Favorite Things

At the beginning of this year, after Sam got his "big boy bed," we made some changes to Sam's bedtime routine. Before tucking Sam into the covers, all three of us sit on top of Sam's bed and say our favorite thing that happened during the day. Perhaps this new routine inadvertently developed because Sam's new bed arrived: it's easier for our family to sit together on a twin-size bed than in a crib!

Anyhow, I also realized this morning that our "favorite things" routine might have developed because I was channeling my inner Maria Von Trapp! Ha! The similarities between our routine and The Sound of Music are amusing.

Istanbul!

I haven't been in the mood to write about my trip to Turkey lately, but I'm determined write at least something. I think that the task just seems to daunting, because this trip was so momentous and activity-filled. Plus, my friend ixoj recapped our trip really well (see her posts: Turkey Part 1, Turkey Part 2, Turkey Part 3, and Random Turkey Thoughts). I feel like so many things have already been recorded, but I'm forcing myself to write. I know that there are other things that I want to remember. I thought I'd jot down a few bullet points, because that somehow seems more manageable:

• When we arrived in Istanbul at 2:00 am, we had a taxi driver take us to our hostel. The windows were rolled down. I distinctly remember warm, heavy, purfumed air come wafting through the taxi windows. While driving, I remembered a quote about an Delacroix painting which was described as being "redolent of the exotic, perfumed, and drugged harem atmosphere."¹ Whenever I caught a waft of some perfumed, spiced air during my trip in Istanbul, I couldn't help but think of this quote. The warm, heavy atmosphere in Turkey reminded me very much of Orientalist descriptions that I have read about harems.

•  I loved seeing Hagia Sophia and the Chora Church. Those were dreams come true! I loved seeing the Anastasis painting at the Chora Church. And I loved Hagia Sophia. The space inside the building was so majestic and awe-inspiring. And I really liked seeing the "golden chain" of light that surrounded the base of the Hagia Sophia dome. It was especially interesting to be in this church and see both the Muslim and Christian influence (and also how Muslims tried to cover up Christian imagery with either plaster or modifying the relief carvings of the cross). My one disappointment is that I didn't see the Viking graffiti in Hagia Sophia. I looked everywhere, but couldn't find it! Next time I'll have to actually pay for a tour guide.

 

The Obelisk of Theodosius, erected 390 CE

 The base of the Obelisk of Theodosius, erected 390 CE. It was interesting to see this Roman base supporting an obelisk with Egyptian hieroglyphs.

One of the Medusa heads in the Basilica Cistern. These two heads serve as the base for some columns and seem to have been intentionally placed upside down (or on their side). I'm sure they were just placed that way for functional purposes. These sculptures were used to support columns, and the heads were probably inverted so that they would be the right height and/or size for that load-bearing function. No one in the Byzantine period would have imagined that tourists would be crawling through their underground cistern in the 21st century!

• It was really neat to see all of the Roman and Byzantine influence in the city, too. I really liked seeing the Eyptian obelisk in the Hippodrome, as well as the upside-down Medusa heads inside the Basilica Cistern.
• I'm glad that my friends convinced me to go on a Bosphorous Cruise. The palaces along the shore were really neat to see. Plus, the water in the Bosphorous was so blue! It was lovely.
• I don't really like shopping, but I did enjoy seeing all of the eclectic goods for sale in the Grand Bazaar. One of the neatest things was a 19th century iron press which was used to imprint images of the crucifixion onto bread at Eastertime.
• Istanbul was extremely HOT and humid. We were sweaty all of the time, and my hair was a poofy frizz-ball.
• Our hostel was located next to a big avenue that was sectioned off for shopping. It was fun to pass all of the shops each night, as we made our way back to our hostel. The only downside of our location was that our hostel was located near a night club. It was sometimes hard to sleep with club music blaring.

 Galata Tower is claimed to have been built during the 6th century CE.

• I will also remember sitting at the base of Galata Tower and eating Magnum bars, in honor of Rachsticle's birthday. If only we had known that she was about to break her ankle on the other side of the world!

Some of the bricks from the Ishtar Gate, placed in an installation to give a recreation of the gate's appearance. The snake-dragon represents the god Marduk (the chief deity), and the bull represents Adad (the storm or weather god).

These lions (a symbol of the fertility goddess Ishtar) lined the processional way of the Ishtar Gate. It was neat to see these bricks up close, because you could tell that the animals were in relief (they project out from the flat surface of background).

• The Istanbul Archaeological Museum was really cool. I spent a long time wandering through the galleries on my own. I liked seeing the Alexander Sarcophagus and the few examples from the Ishtar Gate. (I wasn't aware that part of the gate and processional way were in Istanbul! I thought everything was at the Pergamon Museum in Berlin, but I was wrong.)

The courtyard of the Süleymaniye II mosque

 Detail of the Western painting within the dome of the Suleymaniye Mosque.

• I loved the Suleymaniye Mosque! There were domes all over the place: lining the roof of the courtyard and the main area of the mosque, too. The atmosphere was so calm and pleasant in this space. I also liked the interior decoration. The painting inside the main dome looked quite Western to me (see above). The whole feel of the mosque was really different from the crowded Blue Mosque (which had a lot of irreverent and disrespectful tourists).

 

 The New Mosque. We never went inside of here, but we passed this mosque every day as we would walk into the Old City. One evening we passed by right as the call to prayer took place.

• It was really neat to hear the call to prayer at multiple times during the day. You could tell that some of the muezzins at the larger mosques had more experience (and were a little bit more formulaic and proper in their call to prayer). I wonder if this more formulaic approach is because the muezzins in Istanbul were underwent vocal training a few years ago. When we went out to the country, I noticed that the muezzins were a little bit more creative in their approach to call to prayer. The muezzin in Patara (a small beach town) seemed to like to improvise, but I didn't get such a relaxed feel from the muezzins in Istanbul.

1 Laurie Schneider Adams, A Western History of Art (New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1994), 356.

Seasons: Turn, Turn, Turn

For some reason, I occasionally get reflective when I am vacuuming the house; I often think about the passage of time and how things change. Perhaps I get in such a mood because I'm cleaning up the dust and dirt that has accumulated on the floor over time?

Anyhow, I've been trying to do an extra-thorough clean of our house this week, which has caused me to think about different seasons of life. I thought about specific seasons that in which I am involved right now, and the ones that we have been undertaking since the beginning of the year. Since the year is a little more than halfway over, I thought I'd write what seasons and repeated activities have comprised my family's year thus far. Some of these seasons have ended, but most of them have not:

• House projects
• Gardening projects
• Extermination projects!
• Nightly "Wordament" tournaments before going to bed
• Traveling independently (we have yet to travel as a complete family this year!)
• Family weekends together
• Sunday dinners with Gram and Bop
• Therapy
• Introspection
• Reading fiction!
• Superheroes
• TV shows for Me and J: American Idol, White Collar, The Mentalist, Downton Abbey
• TV shows for J: Mad Men, Arrested Development, Modern Family
• TV shows for Sam: Blue's Clues, Busytown Mysteries, The Avengers
• iPad games for Sam: Angry Birds and Cut the Rope

On a smaller time frame, here are some of the things that comprise our most current season, as of the past few weeks:

• Root beer floats
• Corn on the cob
• Blueberries
• Pie
• Sunburns
• Carpenter ants
• Painting white trim in the house
• Weeding garden beds and spreading wood chips
• Prepping for next year's art history courses
• Watercoloring (J)
• Designing a photos book for co-workers (J)
• Sounding out words in "First Reader" books (Sam)

I like that life is varied by different seasons. I like that there are times for certain seasons, and I (often) like that seasons end. I also like that some seasons are able to repeat themselves, in at least one form or another. Even when one season ends, it's nice to know that there the possibility that you might enjoy something (or even a whole season of something) at another time.

Fred Astaire --> Donald O'Connor --> Danny Kaye

Here's your classic movie fact for the day: Danny Kaye was the third person who was considered for the role of Phil Davis in the classic film, White Christmas.

 Originally, White Christmas was intended to reunite Bing Crosby and Fred Astaire in another Irving Berlin musical. (Crosby and Astaire had previously co-starred in Holiday Inn and Blue Skies). However, Astaire declined the film after reading the script. (I wonder if Astaire ever regretted that decision!)

In turn, Donald O'Connor was selected to play opposite Bing Crosby. But get this: O'Connor got sick from a disease that he seems to have gotten from a mule. O'Connor had recently filmed Francis, a story about a soldier who gets befriended by a talking mule (see image above). This mule apparently transmitted some disease to O'Connor though, and he had to back out of White Christmas shortly before production.

In turn, Danny Kaye was considered for the job - but he asked for a huge paycheck ($200,000 plus ten percent of the gross), not thinking that his offer even would be accepted. Paramount was in a bind, however, and they accepted Kaye's request. And, in the end, aren't we all glad? I can't imagine this film without Danny Kaye.

I've always considered Donald O'Connor to be a poor imitation of Danny Kaye. But now I wonder if O'Connor was more popular than I have assumed. Was Donald O'Connor more desirable for the Phil Davis role? Or was he just a cheaper option for Paramount than Kaye? Who was the bigger star, and who influenced who? Could it be that Danny Kaye actually an imitation of Donald O'Connor? (If this is the case, the Kaye surpassed the actor whom he was imitating!) It looks like the two actors began their careers around the same time (if you discount O'Connor's appearance in Sing You Sinners as a twelve year-old boy).

Any thoughts? Who do you prefer: Donald O'Connor or Danny Kaye?

For more information, read Turner Classic Movies' article on White Christmas.

Sam reads!

See Sam. See Sam read! Read, Sam, read!



We have been working on reading and sounding out words for a long time. Sam learned his letters and all of the sounds that they make when he was about eighteen months old, thanks to The Letter Factory DVD. (I don't feel like I can take credit for teaching him any of that.) Sam hasn't always had the patience for reading, though, so over the past year we have stuck to simple books like the BOB Books. Lately, though, he's wanted to sit down and read more things on his own. I'm always surprised at how many words he can read on signs and boxes throughout the day, too. We'll need to encourage his interest in reading this summer!

Ants, Shasta Daisies, and a Hanging Basket

Today has been a rather frustrating day, since we noticed that carpenter ants have infested our home. Just as soon as we finished paying off our furnace, this new house problem has cropped up. Boo! I left a message with an exterminator, and hopefully he will be able to come in the next few days. In the meantime, we have tried to figure out how the ants are coming into the house and close off some potential entry points.

While I dealt with some of the ant stuff this morning, J did a nice job weeding most of our front garden. When we went to Lowe's to get some stuff for the infestation, we also picked up some wood chips and a few flowers. I told J that I wanted "something fun" for the house in addition to all of our boring carpenter ant purchases, so we got some Shasta daisies and a hanging basket. Even though this day has thrown me for a loop, I get cheered up when I see these new flowers.

The White Mountain Shasta Daisies are on the left of this photo. They are perennials which need semi-moist soil. They will grow to be 12"-15" long. The spent flowers need to be pruned.

This hanging basket has bacopa, Million Bells Calibrachoa, verbena, and Trailing Petunia.

Enchantro Enchant

About a week ago, Sam made up a new superhero called "Enchantro Enchant." He wanted to have a superhero that would be pitted against the evil Enchantress, which helps to explain the name for his new character. Over the past few days, Sam has been providing me with more information about Enchantro Enchant. Here is the information that I've gathered:

Name: Enchantro Enchant
Secret identity name: Causs
Suit colors: Black, yellow, green, blue, gray
Mask: Only covers the top part of his face (like Captain America). His mask has a British flag on it (He specifically picked THIS image of a British flag for this post.)
Cape: Has a British flag on it. (Sam also picked the link image for this cape.)
Boots and gloves: Have the American flag on them.
Superhero powers: Energy projection, super strong (stronger than the Incredible Hulk), shape shifting, x-ray vision, and flying. He also can change his size to be super-dee-duper small, medium-sized, or super-dee-duper-dee-duper-dee-duper big (taller than a brontosaurus' neck!).

On a side note, I have to say that Enchantro Enchant is really good at pulling up weeds. J and I were weeding the garden today, while Sam was pretending to be Enchantro Enchant nearby. (Sam sometimes wears his winter gloves when pretending to be Enchantro Enchant, but I can't tell if the gloves are part of the superhero costume. Sam also wants to wear gloves because J and I have gardening gloves.) I asked Enchantro Enchant to prove to me that he was really strong, and Sam ended up pulling up a lots of weeds (with the roots included!) to prove his strength. I was quite pleased. I'll take a weed-pulling superhero any day.

Layover in Amsterdam!

On the way to Istanbul, my friends and I had a 12-hour layover in Amsterdam. I loved visiting Amsterdam about ten years ago, when I went on a study abroad in Europe. I really looked forward to spending a layover in this city, and I even re-read Anne Frank's diary in preparation for a visit to her museum.

Can you tell that we are jet-lagged? This picture was taken in Dam Square.

Bikes were everywhere! Wikipedia reports that in 2006 there were 465,000 bikes in Amsterdam! My question is this: Why do all of the bikes look like old-school models? It's charming to see thousands on classic bicycle models on the road, so I'm not complaining at all. But could it be that more modern bicycle models are banned from use? Maybe the Dutch are too cool and funky for bikes with gears?

Visiting the Anne Frank Museum was just as neat as I remembered. In fact, I think this trip was more meaningful, since the experiences from Anne Frank's diary were fresh in my mind. And serendipitously, we went to the museum on Anne Frank's birthday! Anne received her diary on her 13th birthday, which meant that we visited the museum on the 70th anniversary of Anne Frank's diary. By coincidence and luck, we arrived at the museum really early. I'm glad we showed up at the beginning of the day, because when we exited there was a large crowd waiting to get in.

The Rijksmuseum! Part of the museum was under construction, so we only saw a portion of the collection - which was still huge in and of itself.

 One of the most surprising and exciting things for me to see in the Rijksmuseum was Frans Post's painting, View of Olinda, Brazil (1662). I've lectured on this painting a few times and even blogged about it. It was really fun to see this painting in-person because there are lots of details that escape notice in digital reproductions. As of yet, I haven't found a great reproduction of this painting online, partially because the painting is quite dark (though not as dark as the reproduction that I've included above). Some reproductions online use fill light, so at least one can see all of the creatures in the foreground. When seeing the painting in-person, I noticed some new creatures that I never saw before, like the gaping, vicious snake that winds itself around a tree on the left.

 Here is a detail of View of Olinda, Brazil. Although I took lots of pictures of this painting, the lighting in the museum was too dark to get great images. This one turned out alright, though. Doesn't that exotic bug look just as big as the bird?

It was also really neat to see Vermeer's Woman in Blue Reading a Letter (ca. 1663), since this painting was just restored and put back on public view this year.

 After visiting these two museums, we headed back to the airport for our next flight. In theory, we still had enough time to visit the Van Gogh Museum, but we were so tired that we started to feel dizzy if we stood still for too long. It was a little hard to look at some of the paintings in the Rijksmuseum without feeling dizzy! I remember needing to sit down several times in the Rijksmuseum, while trying to scrutinize some paintings by Rembrandt. Although I was a wee bit disappointed to not visit the Van Gogh Museum this time around, but I think it was best that we headed back to the airport.