New York: Brick Haus and Family

One of the other great parts about my trip to NYC was getting to see Anna and Katherine for a Brick Haus reunion, kind of as a catchup celebration for our 40th birthdays. The reunion actually was Kelly's idea, and she was supposed to join us too, but she ended up catching Covid that same week and had to stay home. We thought about her often and even called her at one point, but we tried to also give her some space so that she wouldn't have FOMO. We got to visit several museums, saw two shows ("The Play that Went Wrong" and "Hadestown") and several delicious restaurants. Ben met up with us for one meal too, and it was fun to see him again. One of my favorite memories is from our last day, when Katherine and I walked through Central Park to get to-and-from the Met, and then we walked through the galleries chatting about the art we saw.

The Saturday I was in NYC was especially fun, since my brother C and his wife S came down from New Haven to visit me. Katherine and Anna were really gracious about letting them join our plans. It was neat to see C, who is in medical school, I was reminded about how my other brother A did something similar when we went out to New York for CAA about ten years ago, back when he was in medical school. We met C and S at The Cloisters and then went down to the Natural History Museum. It was fun to go through the exhibits with them and talk about the art. C had some really fun things to say about different humanoid skeletons too; it was neat to hear his perspective.

I feel lucky that I got to see family on that particular Saturday, since all of the other S-family members were gathering in Utah for Winston's birthday and L's mission farewell. It was nice to feel connected to family on that same day, even though our two groups of family gatherings were in two separate parts of the country!

New York: CAA and WMS

I recently returned from a trip to New York, where I attended a CAA conference and led a conference session for the William Morris Society in the United States. It was such a different experience from when I attended CAA in New York about nine years ago, as a mere attendee without the responsibility of a presentation or a role in a session. It also felt like a wonderful full-circle moment too, because I got to meet up with Sedef Piker and chat for a while with her, which was fun. I was reminded of how the art history bloggers got together for lunch back in 2013 when I was at CAA that year. Back then, that was my only social engagement at CAA, with bloggers that I knew well from online interactions but had never met in person.

This time at CAA, I had many more things to do, more colleagues to see, and some specific sessions which were helpful for my teaching and generative for my own research and ideas. Although I have had some frustrations with working on the WMS-US board, I am grateful for some of the the associations that I have made and the professional development that it has afforded me. I ran into Heather Belnap on the last day of the conference - as we were both leaving the hotel - and I think it made her happy and proud to see one of her former students actively involved in the discipline and seeking professional development.

I am proud of the CAA session that I put together. We had about sixty people in attendance, which is good for our society. (I think we had maybe 20-30 people in attendance at the previous MLA/CAA sessions I have attended.) I think that the topic of post-colonialism and craft also is an important one. I especially liked Kristen Dorsey's talk on "strategic essentialism" as a strategy for Native craftsman in order to withhold themselves and maintain a position of power in context of a Western tourist market.

I also really enjoyed getting to hang out with Anna W after the session. She and I first connected in January 2020, at a WMS event in Seattle that was held in conjunction with an MLA session (one that I spoke at). Anna made a comment about how people in the William Morris Society are some of the nicest among those in academia, and I think she is absolutely right. Maybe William Morris's own temperament and/or interests attract nice people? After I connected with her and Jane Carlin at the events that were held that weekend in 2020, I became even more interested in the society. My positive interactions with them swayed my decision when I was invited to serve on the board, and I've really liked working with Anna. We made sure to snap a picture while we hung out at Lillie's Victorian Establishment after the recent CAA session:

The William Morris Society also held an event at the Grolier Club later that same week. Anna W wasn't able to make it (she got sick with Covid), but I did get to meet some of the other board members whom I hadn't met in person before. We are a hodgepodge group in some ways, but everyone is very nice and welcoming. It was strange to see how tall/short the others are, since we have only seen each other on Zoom until now. It was fun to get a tour of the Grolier library and see some William Morris related items, including a beautiful book with a cover that was embroidered by May Morris.

Mark, Tracy and Jude

The other fun thing that I really enjoyed doing was getting to see Chris June working at Christie's. I was able to see the last day of the André Leon Talley auction and Chris was there on the floor, working on the phones with the rest of his colleagues. It made me so happy to see Chris in his work element. If I stopped teaching tomorrow, I would feel happy knowing that I played a role in getting Chris into his own career path. I know he's doing and will continue to do a lot of great things, because of the high achiever that he is.

Chris was able to step over and say hello to me during lots. We also got to go out to dinner one of the nights that I was in town and properly catch up. He is such a delight! I love that we have so many crossover memories of not only the art history classes, but also singing in choir together.

COVID-19 Chaos and a Beach

The past two weeks have upset the routine of our lives, with the coronavirus COVID-19 coming to the United States from China. We can tell that these changes are just the beginning for several weeks (perhaps months) of changes as people quarantine and self-isolate as a way to keep the virus from spreading. The governor has closed all of the schools in Washington for the next six weeks, starting this week. Jeremy will be working at home indefinitely for the foreseeable future and all of the spring quarter classes that I teach will be held online.

I am concerned about how I'm going to keep my kids happy and occupied (preferably learning!) for six weeks at home, while I'm trying to work at the same time. One of the classes I'm teaching is one that I've never taught before, so I already anticipated extra work before knowing it would be online. Jeremy and I will need to come up with a plan. Sam asks, "What are we doing today?" right when he wakes up, and he often asks "What are we doing this morning/afternoon/evening?" a few times per day. He likes consistency and a clear direction from his parents about what to do, even if he actually has an opinion about how he would like to spend his time. So we will need to think of a clear plan for him. And Lucy doesn't like to do anything without "a friend" for company (unless she is watching TV or playing the iPad), so it will be interesting to try and multitask with her around.

I was supposed to go to Utah later this month to meet new baby Winston, but I've had to cancel my flight now that the kids are going to be home from school. I'm really disappointed, but Jeremy will need my help caring for them during the day so that he can work. And I thought about bringing the kids with me to Utah, but it doesn't seem too wise to travel right now. We don't want to spread the coronavirus, in case we come in contact with it. It is worrisome that a person can transmit the virus without even exhibiting symptoms. Plus I'm not sure if my family members want to host three people while they are supposed to be staying at home themselves - we might just contribute to the chaos of their own cabin fever.

This weekend we are self-isolating, but at least in a new location other than our house. Jeremy found an Airbnb beach house rental in Kingston, so we booked that as a way to celebrate his birthday. Even if we are staying mostly indoors with our family, it has been really nice to look outside and see the constant changing scenery with the moving water and the passing boats. Yesterday at low tide we explored the shore and saw some of the largest, most intact shells that I have ever seen.

The birthday man with his waterfront view

It's hard to get a clear sense of what will happen in the months to come. Some people on Twitter are speculating that this might be the defining moment of the 21st century that changes everything that comes after. Other people on Twitter are suggesting that this is a time to write down your thoughts or make something during this period, so we remember what we were thinking and feeling during such a historic moment - which is one reason why I wanted to write this post. Maybe I'll get more chances to write on my blogs in the weeks to come...or maybe I will be too stretched thin to do anything by try and get by.

Brasilia: Oscar Niemeyer Buildings (Day 1)

It has been so much fun to visit with Kelly, her family, and to see her home. My Portuguese is doing alright, even though I have forgotten basic words like "tijelo." I especially like speaking Portuguese with Wren and Finn.

Yesterday Kelly took me to see some of the famous buildings and monuments in Brasilia. We drove into the city on the JK Bridge (shown above) and went to the Praça dos Tres Poderes to see the government buildings. We drove past the Congresso Nacional (the double towers), Palácio do Planalto, 

We first went inside the Metropolitan Cathedral (Catedral Metropolitana de Nossa Senhora da Aparecida). I've taught about this structure several times, so it was really special for me to be in the space. Here were a couple of my observations for the cathedral (as well as what I have learned from the online guide):

• I've never noticed the carillon in images of the cathedral. This was designed by Niemeyer and dedicated in 1977. The bells were a gift of the Spanish government. Three of the bells represent the boats of Christopher Columbus and the other bell represents Nossa Senhora do Pilar (who is heavily venerated in Spain).
• You really get a sense that you are underground when you are in the cathedral space. The wall curves up to about 6' tall, and then the windows appear just above (which would be ground level outside)
• The cathedral was very warm and kind of miserable to be inside, with all of the light beating down through the windows. This structure totally fits with modernism: it is glorious to look at, but completely not user-friendly and comfortable.
• There is supposed to be a reflecting pool that surrounds the structure! It was completely drained, like most of the reflecting pools and fountains that I've seen on my trip.

I didn't realize that there was a baptistery that was created later in the cathedral. The elevated ceiling can be seen popping out from above the ground line, like a flying saucer, just next to the cathedral entrance.

After the cathedral we went to the Museo Nacional nearby (another Niemeyer building). The art wasn't that interesting inside, so we headed over to the Espaço Lúcio Costa, an underground plaza, to see a display of the airplane-shape floorvplan of the city. Then we walked across the above-ground plaza to see the Panteão da Patria (Pantheon of the Homeland). This building is dedicated to peace, and the structure is supposed to look like the wings of a dove. 

Panteão da Patria

The inside of the building has a memorial to Tancredo Neves, who was supposed to be sworn in as the first democratically-elected president but was too ill to be sworn in (his vice-president assumed power in his stead) and then died shortly thereafter. The white monument above (with the eternal flame) is dedicated to Tancredo Neves's memory. Inside the Panteão da Patria is also a series of panels that honor the Inconfidência Mineira by João Camara Filho. They are placed opposite a stained glass window by Marianne Peretti; the window is supposed to evoke either the shape of Brazil or a tree.

Os Inconfidentes gathered around to conspire!

Death of Tiradentes

Afterward we looked at the Os Candangos sculptures. Kelly pointed out that the nickname "candangos" originally was a pejorative term meaning "ordinário" or "ruim," since it was used to denote immigrants of African descent who came to Brasilia to help build the capital in a matter of years. The sculpture was built in 1959 by Bruno Giorgi in honor of these workers who helped to build the city. Bruno Giorgi was himself an immigrant (he was extradited to Brazil in the 1930s due to his involvement with the anti-fascist movement).

Os Candangos with the Palacio do Planalto in the background

The sun is bright and hot in Brazil!

Hearst Castle

Hearst Castle, once owned by William Randolph Hearst, is probably the strangest historical house/museum that I have ever visited in my life, aesthetically-speaking. The exterior of the main house looks like the facade of a Spanish Renaissance church, for starters, and is complete with two bell towers. And the interior of the main waiting room and dining room are decorated with choir stalls for wainscoting. The ceilings are carved with panels, the walls above the wainscoting are covered with tapestries, and paintings are interspersed in the remaining wall surface area. It's all super bizarre.

But I'm drawn to this place, too. It seems to have all of the things that I enjoy about art and art history: it is a collector museum, it has Baroque and Neo-classical art (including a copy of Canova's "The Three Graces"), it even has ancient art (such as an Egyptian sculpture of Sekhmet). There are gardens and mosaics and a beautiful seaside coast. The castle even has connections with feminism, since it was designed by the architect Julia Morgan, who was the first woman to receive a degree in architecture from the School of Fine Arts in Paris. William Randolph Hearst's mother was also connected to the Suffragette movement, which makes me interested in his family. I can even connect the estate to art crime. I can even connect my interest in Old Hollywood to this place, since Hearst would invite stars like Clark Gable, Cary Grant, and Charlie Chaplin to visit.

It seems like this place is just calling for me to write something about it. An article? A dissertation? I'm not sure yet. But for now I'm thinking about how this place is full of contradictions: New World (California) vs. Old World, traditionalism (in style) vs. progressivism (female architect), fictive environments (including the movie theater and the impromptu plays that Hearst's Hollywood guests would perform), and public vs. private spaces. Maybe there is something I can derive from his mistress Marion Davies, who acted as hostess alongside Hearst? We'll see what I come up with after I finish mulling these ideas over in my mind.

Ceiling of the waiting room

Wainscoting in the waiting room - this was inspired by another architect

Statue of Sekhmet rests on an Art Deco fountain designed by Julia Morgan

The dining hall

Detail of the Game Room, next to one of the billiard tables

Detail of the movie theater in the house

A copy of Canova's "The Three Graces," by Boyer (late 19th century)

This indoor swimming pool was my favorite place on the estate - gorgeous!

Trip to Germany: Day 11 (Sans Soucci)

Germany Trip Day 12: This day was a polar opposite experience from my visit to Sachsenhausen the day before. Instead, I visited the Schloss and Park Sanssouci, which was begun as a summer retreat for Frederick the Great (1712-86) so he could be "sans souci" (without cares). What luxury and opulence were here! This park has numerous palaces, monuments and gardens. I spent seven hours here and still didn't see everything! 

I first visited the Sanssouci Palace itself. I was interested to learn that a specific strain the Rococo style can be seen at Sanssouci, which is known as Frederician Rococo. This style embraces nature in all its forms, including spiderwebs and spiders! 🕷 I also loved seeing the oval dome in the Marble Room (it reminded me of Borromini) and the floral garland on the ceiling of the Voltaire Room.

I really adored the bedchamber nicknamed the "Voltaire Room." Voltaire was a guest at Sanssouci for three years, from 1750-1753.

Ceiling of the Voltaire Room

Wall paneling in the Voltaire Room

The Bildergalerie:

This is the Bildergalerie in Sanssouci Park. The lighting is similar to the original lighting for the gallery (i. e., using windows, so the glare is terrible), but it was still fun to see Caravaggio's "Doubting Thomas."

The Orangerie:I then went and visited the Orangerie. This palace contains a Raphael Hall, which is based off of the Sala Regia in the Vatican. The room is filled with copies of Raphael paintings. I thought of my late friend Hasan when I walked into this room - he would have loved it!

The New Chambers: 

The Chinese House:I really enjoyed seeing the Chinese House and thinking about chinoiserie. I love that Corinthian column were replaced with lush, exotic palm trees. 

The Roman Bath House:

This is the Caryatid Room in the Roman Bath House

Neues Palace:
The most impressive room to me in the Neues Palace was the Grotto Hall, since the walls were covered with iridescent shells and colored stones. When I was there, I remember thinking how I've never seen anything like it before. The royal family would spend Christmas in this hall.

Neues Palace

Schloss Charlottenhof: 

The red door color was in vogue in the Neoclassical era because of the discoveries of red Roman wall paintings at Pompeii. 

This is the Tent Room at Schloss Charlettenhof. This was a guest room and was supposed to evoke a Roman commander's tent. I imagine there also was some interest in tents because of Turquerie.

This was an unforgettable day in Potsdam. I saw so many beautiful things and I learned a lot, too. I'm really glad that I got to go here at the very end of my trip - what a great finale to my experience in Germany!