Trip to Germany: Munich (Days 1 and 2)

Last August I had the chance to visit Germany. It was an amazing trip and I've been wanting to write down my thoughts for some time. It was really fun for me to get to spend some time with Rachsticle, who traveled with me. It was especially fun to travel back to Europe with her specifically, since I hadn't been back to Europe (besides the UK) since the study abroad that we completed almost exactly fourteen years before. Rachel and I flew out from SLC together and first went to Munich, where my dear friend Meka was living for the summer. I was so glad that I got to spend some quality time with Meka and June while I was there .

After arriving, Rachel and I walked around for a bit before jet-lagged Rachel went back to her hotel to sleep. I ended up sleeping at Meka's residence inn with her and June, but before heading there I met Meka outside the Residenz Museum. This palace was used by Bavarian rulers (the Wittelsbachs) from 1385 to 1918. My favorite room was the Antiquarium, which is filled with grottoesque paintings and busts of Roman rulers.

Antiquarium

 In the theater within the palace

There were lots of different styles within the palace rooms, but I particularly liked this one that had red-and-gold chinoiserie decoration and pictures in small frames.

Schnitzel at the Hofbrauhaus!

 The next morning we walked past the Richard Strauss fountain on the way to the Marienplatz. The style of the column reminds me a little bit of the Bernward Column at Hildesheim, but I haven't been able to pinpoint any connection thus far. It is interesting that both the fountain and Bernward's Column portray Salome, though.

At the Marienplatz outside the Neues Rathaus. We watched the glockenspiel of the clock tower play chimes at 11:00 am, which includes moving and dancing figures that represent historical and traditional events. Before seeing the Glockenspeil, we went to the Viktualienmarkt for some eis (ice cream) and delicious schmalznudel. One of the green domes in the distance belongs to the Frauenkirche (which actually is a structure with two domed towers that can be seen in the skyline from around Munich).

Inside the Frauenkirche. I've never seen vaulting designs like these before.

After seeing the Frauenkirche and Rathaus, we split up so Meka could take June home for a nap. Rachel and I went to the Neue Pinakothek. This museum opened to the public in 1853 and was the first museum in the world that was dedicated to contemporary art. I was really struck by their late 19th and early 20th century art.

Van Gogh, Sunflowers, 1888

Odilon Redon, The Cathedral, c. 1914

I've never seen a Redon like this one. The speckled colors in the window were really striking and remind me a little of Seurat.

Gustav Klimt paintings inside, including Music (1895).

After leaving the Neue Pinakothek, I went to the Alte Pinakothek by myself and I loved getting the chance to explore at my own pace. Although I liked spending time with my friends during my trip, I also quickly realized that I enjoy visiting museums by myself because my interests are so specific. I quickly can tell if something will interest me (either because I recognize it or like the visual details), and I spend long amounts of time looking at things that I find beautiful or meaningful. Plus, I like to take lots and lots of pictures so I can have possible detail images for further research or teaching. Anyhow, the trip ended up being a good balance between going to see some museums with my friends but also going off on my own too.

Unfortunately, 3/4 of the Alte Pimakothek building was closed due to a construction and restoration project. A portion of the collection was jumbled together in the upper galleries, but the lighting was terrible in the hallways and I didn't get great images. Nonetheless, it was fun to go to this museum and see so many well-known "friends" that I have studied and discussed with students, but never met face-to-face.

Boucher, Madame Pompadour, 1756

Look at the terrible glare on Dürer's self-portrait! I'm surprised the museum doesn't display this painting better. I was surprised to find that I was less drawn to the Dürer paintings: his famous Christ-like self-portrait looked a little yellow, like it needs cleaning, and the glare from the protective glass was off-putting. I was more drawn to Rembrandt's Christ Resurrected that was displayed next to this self-portrait.  

Gerard ter Borch, Boy Ridding His Dog of Fleas, c. 1665

I discuss this painting in a class with students, so this was a fun painting to stumble across

Durer, Four Apostles, 1526

These paintings were a lot larger than I imagined they would be!

After leaving the Alte Pinakothek, I went by myself to the Staatliche Sammlung für Ägyptische Kunst, but I wasn't as impressed with the Egyptian art there. I was most excited about visiting the Glyptothek with Meka that evening. It was fun to see the "Barberini Faun" and the pedimental sculptures from the Temple of Aphaia. I was also intrigued that there was a Neoclassical bust of the art historian Winckelmann near the entrance of the museum.

Barberini Faun, c. 220 BCE. I think this guy looks like Heath Ledger. Seeing this sculpture in person made my realize how clearly you can see the tail of the figure - hence why it is called a "faun."

It was such a highlight to get to see these sculptures in person, since I use the pedimental sculptures of the Temple of Aphaia to teach about the Archaic Period. I tried to get up close to see if I could see any of the raised designs that indicate more decoration and pigmentation (see this video around 2:43), but I couldn't see anything with my naked eye. I was temped to turn on the flashlight on my cellphone and look, but I knew the museum guard wouldn't be happy with that (and he was already eyeing me since I was getting up so close and standing in bizarre stances to look at the details).

This guy could be brothers with the Portrait Head of an Elder at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Gallery of Roman portrait busts. 

I thought it fitting that I began my time in Munich looking at the busts in the Antiquarium in the Resident Museum (first photo of this post), and essentially the last large gallery I visited in Munich was also filled with ancient Roman busts. Things came full circle in Munich quite nicely!