Trip to Germany: Nuremberg (Day 5)

We left Rothenberg ob der Tauber and headed to Nuremberg. We said goodbye to Meka and June. Rachael wasn't interested in visiting Albrecht Dürer's house, so I went over there by myself. This was a really special trip for me, because Dürer is such a fascinating artist who was able to achieve international fame through his prints (the printing press was invented a few decades before Dürer's career). It was also special to be in Nuremberg and think about how the city climate fostered Dürer's career, since artists were not required to work within a guild system in this city. Dürer lived in the right place at the right time. Today this is the only surviving home of a 15th century artist from Northern Europe, and it is especially lucky that this building exists since 90% of Nuremberg was bombed during WWII.

The painting on the left is a copy of the original self-portrait by Dürer (which I saw in the Alte Pinakothek). The copy was purchased by the Nuremberg City Council in 1786 and for a time was even thought to be the original painting, until the Swedish poet Atterbom corrected the error in 1817.

There is a modern section added onto the original house which has gallery spaces. A docent dressed up as Agnes was giving a tour to visitors, but I wasn't able to follow along since the tour was in German!

Dürer and his wife Agnes had a very large house, especially since they didn't have any children.

I was really struck by all of the circular window panes in the upper story of the original house. Dürer depicts similar circular window panes in his print "Saint Jerome in His Study" (1514).

One room had a copy of a matrix for the Emperor Maximilian I engraving (1519). It was neat to see all of the intricate lines and the depth of the engraving, since I'm only familiar with the print itself.

After leaving the house, I met up with Rachel and we visited the Dokumentationszentrum, where Nazi Party rallies used to be held. The National Socialists first began to hold Party Rallies in Nuremberg from 1927-1929. The grounds were bombed heavily during WWII, but this site remains probably the best example of Nazi-era architecture that exists today  I was struck by how the architect Albert Speer intentionally designed the space so that the visitor's eye would be drawn to where the Führer was located during rally events. It was also interesting to learn that the participants of these rallies did not go with the intent of learning something new, but to have the experience of participating. In a way, these rallies remind me a little of performance art.

Part of the remaining architecture that gives a sense of the original intended appearance of the Nazi Party rally grounds. However, construction work for the site as a whole (which would have covered 11 square kilometers) was abandoned to a large degree with the beginning of WWII on September 1, 1939.

Trip to Germany: Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Day 4)

I'm really glad that Rachel suggested that we visit Rothenburg ob der Tauber on our trip, because I probably wouldn't have thought to come her on my own. This is Germany's best preserved walled town, and it gives off a sense of what medieval Germany was like. Rachel had ancestors which came from this town, and she even let me know (while talking in her sleep!) that she had an ancestor who preached a sermon in the church next to our hotel. The next morning I confirmed that her sleep talking was actually based in fact, and we could even see the church from our hotel window (see above). Rachel also told me that her ancestors had a disagreement with their neighbors and challenged them to a drinking contest. Her ancestors won the contest, and the disgraced neighbors moved away.

Meka and June came up to Rothenburg with us and we all stayed in the Hotel Eisenhut (although our two rooms were in different buildings across the street). The location was fantastic; it was right next to the main square by the Rathaus. After we arrived Meka tried to put down for a nap, so Rachel and I went to the Mittelalterliches Kriminalmuseum (Medieval Crime and Punishment Museum) on our own. I was particularly fascinated by the Iron Maiden, chastity belts, and shame masks on display there. Then we went sightseeing to a few other places with Meka and June:

Rachel shopping at the Kathe Wöhlfahrt Christmas shop.

Parts of this town were used in the filming of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang - such as when the toymaker in "Vulgaria" is trying to kidnap the children.

View of the city from the Rathausturm (Town Hall Tower)

Schneeball pastries are a specialty in Rothenburg ob der Tauber. I have to admit, they don't taste as good as they look! They are a little dry. And Rachel said they taste like lard - ha ha!

One of my favorite drinks in Germany was Johannisbeerschorle, which is currant juice soda. This meal was kind of like a omelet pancake, but I can't remember what it is called.

In the evening I went on the famous Night Watchman tour. It was really fun to hear this sarcastic and entertaining guide give his account of the history of the city. He pointed out different structures that had historical significance and talked about a certain time when the town was under siege but the walls kept the enemy at bay. He also talked about how the city was bombed during WWII, but how the city was ultimately saved from destruction because of a German (Major Thömmes) and an American (John J. McCloy) who both wanted to preserve the town and stop the bombing. McCloy knew of the city's importance and was fond of it: his mother had once visited Rothenburg and a painting of the town had hung in his family's home.

In the morning with Meka and June. We were just about to say goodbye to them - they took a ride with us to Nuremberg, but we split up there so Meka and June could return home to Munich on the train. 

What a charming place! The faux Bavarian town of Leavenworth in Washington seems very contrived in comparison. I'm glad I got to spend a day here.

Trip to Germany: Zugspitze and Linderhoff (Day 3)

The following day we left Munich and drove south to Zugspitze, which is Germany's highest peak. We took a train up to the top of the mountain and even had to take a further gondola to get up to the topmost peak.

My two beautiful friends!

It was fun to get a look at the picturesque countryside and mountains while we rode on the train.

We at lunch at the top of the peak and then rode back down to our car. We considered going to Neuschwanstein Castle afterward, but we ultimately decided that would be too much driving and we wouldn't get to see very much before closing time. Instead, we went to Schloss Linderhof (Linderhof Palace) which was closer and on the way back to Munich. I think that this was a better decision ultimately, since we could this site was actually used as a residence used by King Ludwig II. Ludwig identified with the Bourbon kings of France, and accordingly the imagery references Louis XIV and Versailles. Ludwig II was also a huge admirer of the musician Richard Wagner (to the point of an unhealthy obsession, I think), and several of the structures and spaces in the park were made to depict or reference aspects of Wagnerian operas (although unfortunately we weren't able to visit the Grotto when we were there, which is decorated with illustrations from a Wagner opera). There even was an organ that was placed in the palace which Wagner played when he came to visit.

The large tree next to the lower rampart in the garden (in the middle ground on the left) is the 300-year-old linden tree which gives the palace its name.

Probably the structure that I found most interesting was the Moorish Kiosk on the palace grounds. The kiosk was created for the World Exhibition in Paris in 1867 - I looked to see if the kiosk was depicted in Manet's painting of the event, but I don't see it. Eventually, the structure was purchased by Ludwig in 1876.

Trip to Germany: Munich (Days 1 and 2)

Last August I had the chance to visit Germany. It was an amazing trip and I've been wanting to write down my thoughts for some time. It was really fun for me to get to spend some time with Rachsticle, who traveled with me. It was especially fun to travel back to Europe with her specifically, since I hadn't been back to Europe (besides the UK) since the study abroad that we completed almost exactly fourteen years before. Rachel and I flew out from SLC together and first went to Munich, where my dear friend Meka was living for the summer. I was so glad that I got to spend some quality time with Meka and June while I was there .

After arriving, Rachel and I walked around for a bit before jet-lagged Rachel went back to her hotel to sleep. I ended up sleeping at Meka's residence inn with her and June, but before heading there I met Meka outside the Residenz Museum. This palace was used by Bavarian rulers (the Wittelsbachs) from 1385 to 1918. My favorite room was the Antiquarium, which is filled with grottoesque paintings and busts of Roman rulers.

Antiquarium

 In the theater within the palace

There were lots of different styles within the palace rooms, but I particularly liked this one that had red-and-gold chinoiserie decoration and pictures in small frames.

Schnitzel at the Hofbrauhaus!

 The next morning we walked past the Richard Strauss fountain on the way to the Marienplatz. The style of the column reminds me a little bit of the Bernward Column at Hildesheim, but I haven't been able to pinpoint any connection thus far. It is interesting that both the fountain and Bernward's Column portray Salome, though.

At the Marienplatz outside the Neues Rathaus. We watched the glockenspiel of the clock tower play chimes at 11:00 am, which includes moving and dancing figures that represent historical and traditional events. Before seeing the Glockenspeil, we went to the Viktualienmarkt for some eis (ice cream) and delicious schmalznudel. One of the green domes in the distance belongs to the Frauenkirche (which actually is a structure with two domed towers that can be seen in the skyline from around Munich).

Inside the Frauenkirche. I've never seen vaulting designs like these before.

After seeing the Frauenkirche and Rathaus, we split up so Meka could take June home for a nap. Rachel and I went to the Neue Pinakothek. This museum opened to the public in 1853 and was the first museum in the world that was dedicated to contemporary art. I was really struck by their late 19th and early 20th century art.

Van Gogh, Sunflowers, 1888

Odilon Redon, The Cathedral, c. 1914

I've never seen a Redon like this one. The speckled colors in the window were really striking and remind me a little of Seurat.

Gustav Klimt paintings inside, including Music (1895).

After leaving the Neue Pinakothek, I went to the Alte Pinakothek by myself and I loved getting the chance to explore at my own pace. Although I liked spending time with my friends during my trip, I also quickly realized that I enjoy visiting museums by myself because my interests are so specific. I quickly can tell if something will interest me (either because I recognize it or like the visual details), and I spend long amounts of time looking at things that I find beautiful or meaningful. Plus, I like to take lots and lots of pictures so I can have possible detail images for further research or teaching. Anyhow, the trip ended up being a good balance between going to see some museums with my friends but also going off on my own too.

Unfortunately, 3/4 of the Alte Pimakothek building was closed due to a construction and restoration project. A portion of the collection was jumbled together in the upper galleries, but the lighting was terrible in the hallways and I didn't get great images. Nonetheless, it was fun to go to this museum and see so many well-known "friends" that I have studied and discussed with students, but never met face-to-face.

Boucher, Madame Pompadour, 1756

Look at the terrible glare on Dürer's self-portrait! I'm surprised the museum doesn't display this painting better. I was surprised to find that I was less drawn to the Dürer paintings: his famous Christ-like self-portrait looked a little yellow, like it needs cleaning, and the glare from the protective glass was off-putting. I was more drawn to Rembrandt's Christ Resurrected that was displayed next to this self-portrait.  

Gerard ter Borch, Boy Ridding His Dog of Fleas, c. 1665

I discuss this painting in a class with students, so this was a fun painting to stumble across

Durer, Four Apostles, 1526

These paintings were a lot larger than I imagined they would be!

After leaving the Alte Pinakothek, I went by myself to the Staatliche Sammlung für Ägyptische Kunst, but I wasn't as impressed with the Egyptian art there. I was most excited about visiting the Glyptothek with Meka that evening. It was fun to see the "Barberini Faun" and the pedimental sculptures from the Temple of Aphaia. I was also intrigued that there was a Neoclassical bust of the art historian Winckelmann near the entrance of the museum.

Barberini Faun, c. 220 BCE. I think this guy looks like Heath Ledger. Seeing this sculpture in person made my realize how clearly you can see the tail of the figure - hence why it is called a "faun."

It was such a highlight to get to see these sculptures in person, since I use the pedimental sculptures of the Temple of Aphaia to teach about the Archaic Period. I tried to get up close to see if I could see any of the raised designs that indicate more decoration and pigmentation (see this video around 2:43), but I couldn't see anything with my naked eye. I was temped to turn on the flashlight on my cellphone and look, but I knew the museum guard wouldn't be happy with that (and he was already eyeing me since I was getting up so close and standing in bizarre stances to look at the details).

This guy could be brothers with the Portrait Head of an Elder at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Gallery of Roman portrait busts. 

I thought it fitting that I began my time in Munich looking at the busts in the Antiquarium in the Resident Museum (first photo of this post), and essentially the last large gallery I visited in Munich was also filled with ancient Roman busts. Things came full circle in Munich quite nicely!

Goal for 2018: Lucy's Independence

Lately Lucy has really been getting on my nerves, and then I get further peeved with myself for getting so annoyed with her. It is a vicious cycle of annoyance and today was particularly hard. It seemed like the majority of Lucy's waking hours were spent whining, complaining, or crying. Her loud whines irritate me quickly, especially if she only cries and refuses to "use her words" to explain what she is thinking or feeling. I know that she is old enough to express herself, so I get really irritated when she incessantly wails like a siren and won't respond to my questions or comments. To deal with the noise, I find myself coping by either stuffing my face with sugary treats or raising my voice. Today I ate four Rice Krispie treats in a row while she had a screamy fit on the kitchen floor.

Perhaps today was so hard because I started to do my New Year's resolution, which is to teach Lucy how to have Quiet Time. On a whole, she doesn't like to be independent and do things on her own. She likes to have me help her with everything, and she likes me to be with her ALL. THE. TIME. Ever since she stopped napping last summer, I haven't been able to get much done in the afternoons because she refuses to quietly entertain herself. At her age, Sam would quietly look at picture books in his room for at least 20-30 minutes, but Lucy won't do that. If she and I are the only ones at home, the only time she'll give me space is if she is watching a show on the TV.

But I want her to learn how to entertain herself and I enforced this new Quiet Time period today. She screamed for about 45 minutes that she didn't want to have Quiet Time (see picture above), but she finally, finally settled on playing with Fashion Plates at the kitchen table. Where she sat right next to me. And needed my help every few minutes. Sigh. At least I wrote a few emails and got a couple of bills paid in the interval. But I wouldn't call today's Quiet Time a success.

So my goal this year is to teach Lucy to be more independent. Somehow my presence serves as a crutch for her to not do things on her own, and I want to get rid of that crutch. I want her to learn how to have Quiet Time, how to go to the bathroom without insisting on my presence (she's fully capable on her own), and also to stay in her own bed for the whole night. About 90% of the time, Lucy ends up coming into our bed in the middle of the night and commandeering most of the mattress. I'm going to reclaim by bed space this year!

And, perhaps just as importantly, I want to find better ways to deal with Lucy when she gets on my nerves. Ideally, I won't get annoyed at all. I realize it may take me a while to reach that point, but I want to start by figuring out how to respond to her without raising by voice or having an irritated tone. Maybe I'll start by just pausing and counting to ten in my mind before I respond to her.