Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Rosa Parks vs. James Blake (Times Two!)

I'm in the middle of reading Quiet: The Power of Introverts in a World that Can't Stop Talking by Susan Cain. I've thought a lot about myself, J, Sam and my friends while reading this book. I score straight down the middle on the Myers-Briggs personality test (half-introvert and half-extrovert), but J is almost completely introverted.

The book is really interesting, and I'm especially intrigued about how the Culture of Personality developed in the 20th century (as opposed to the focus on inner virtue and character in the 19th century). It makes sense that our culture has idolized movie stars for almost a century; these film stars seem to embody the Culture of Personality that has been upheld for about that long. Oh, and I also think it's interesting how Cain suggests, "From an evolutionary perspective, introversion must have survived as a personality trait for a reason" (p. 15). I like thinking about introversion and natural selection!

While reading, it has been obvious to me that Susan Cain holds Rosa Parks in high regard. Rosa Parks, an introvert, is introduced in the first page of the book, and she has been mentioned a couple other times (and I've only read about sixty pages so far!). (The continual references remind me a little bit of how Joanna Brooks talks a lot about Marie Osmond in Book of Mormon Girl. Is it popular for recent nonfiction books to somehow "anchor" themselves around certain historical/cultural figures?) Anyhow, Cain wrote this story about Rosa Parks which I found especially interesting. Although this anecdote doesn't deal too much with introversion, I think it's interesting that Rosa Parks had two separate run-ins with the bus driver James Blake:

"Not many people know that twelve years before her showdown with the Montgomery bus driver, [Rosa Parks had] had another encounter with the same man, possibly on the very same bus. It was a November afternoon, in 1943, and Parks had entered through the front door of the bus because the back was too crowded. The driver, a well-known bigot named James Blake, told her to use the rear and started to push her off the bus. Parks asked him not to touch her. She would leave on her own, she said quietly. 'Get off my bus,' Blake sputtered in response.

Parks complied, but not before deliberately dropping her purse on her way out and sitting on a "white" seat as she picked it up. 'Intuitively, she had engaged in an act of passive resistance, a precept named by Leo Tolstoy and embraced by Mahatma Gandhi,' writes the historian Douglas Brinkley in a wonderful biography of Parks. It was more than a decade before King popularized the idea of nonviolence and long before Parks's own training in civil disobedience, but, Brinkley writes, 'such principles were a perfect match for her own personality.'

Parks was so disgusted by Blake that she refused to ride on his bus for the next twelve years. On the day she finally did, the day that turned her into the 'Mother of the Civil Rights Movement,' she got back on that bus, according to Brinkley, only out of sheer absentmindedness" (Cain, p. 58-59).

Friday, August 24, 2012

Historical Halloween!

The Wishcraft Costumes catalog arrived at our house a few weeks ago. Sam and I have poured over these costumes several times, almost on a daily basis. Naturally, Sam loves all of the superhero costumes. I love all of the historical costumes. If I had a little girl, I would buy her the Empress Josephine costume or the Marie Antoinette costume in a heartbeat. If only they made those costumes in adult sizes!

Wishcraft does make some other historical costumes for families, though. My absolute favorite is the "Vampires of Versailles" family costume. (How can you turn down a costume with a name that awesome?!?) Or, as a backup, I wouldn't mind if J and I were Victorian ghosts.

"Vampires of Versailles"

"Ghostly Adults"

Unsurprisingly, these historical costumes are too pricey for merely trick-or-treating around the neighborhood. (They are actually rather expensive, with each adult costume marked somewhere around $140 to $200.) I almost want to throw a posh Halloween party, just so I'll have a reason to wear something this awesome...

Thursday, August 2, 2012

Ancient Pergamon (Bergama)!

On our final leg of the trip, we headed to Bergama (the modern city where ancient Pergamon is located). I had specifically requested that we make a trip up here, since I wanted to see the place where the Altar of Zeus originally was located. (The Altar of Zeus was relocated to Berlin; the transfer of the altar actually had an effect on the scholarship of Baroque art.)

 We arrived in Bergama in the late afternoon, and first decided to explore the city for a bit.

We ended up spending over an hour in this shop, visiting with the shop owner and looking at the merchandise. The shop owner was crippled in some way, so he had two assistants (including the girl on the right of this photo).

The next morning, we took a gondola to the top of the acropolis of ancient Pergamon. Zillah isn't a fan of heights, but I'm glad that she semi-smiled for this picture.


We noticed the Kestel Dam located underneath the acropolis. My friends' guide books discussed how this dam covered up some ancient ruins. I did some research on this dam (and another Turkish dam which covered up some ruins) after I got home.

Ruins from the Temple of Trajan

The stairs for the theater were really steep! We were alone down here; none of the other tourists wanted to brave the steep stairs.



 The ancient site for the Altar of Zeus! Be still my heart!

Here's a reconstruction drawing for where the Altar of Zeus was located in relation to other buildings on the acropolis.

 I took a small video, so I could show students where the altar is located in relation to the edge of the acropolis

  
Phin, Ixoj, and Zillah walking through the neighborhoods of Bergama, after we left the acropolis 

After the acropolis, we visited the Red Basilica (also known as the "Serapeion" or "The Temple of the Egyptian Gods"). This temple was probably founded in the 2nd century CE (during the rule of Hadrian). It is especially interesting because the roof of the galleries were supported by caryatids (female figures that serve as columns) that were decorated in the Egyptian style. It is thought that this building was actually made for Egyptian gods. My grammatically-incorrect Pergamon guide book asserts, "The temple must have been devoted to Gods Sespis with Iris and Harpok rates [sic?] worshiped somewhere in [the] Roman Empire. [During] the Byzantine period, a church was founded [here]."1

The Red Basilica (from the back)

You can see the remains of an Egyptian headress on this statue (which also seems to be wearing classical clothing). This is a really interesting combination of both Egyptian and Greco-Roman styles.

The Red Basilica is quite well-preserved

After the Red Basilica, we walked over to the local archaeological museum. All of the places that we wanted to see in Bergama were fairly close together, so it wasn't to hard to walk places. It was, however, pretty hot. So we had to refresh ourselves with some Magnum bars before going into the museum.

 Even though I didn't get to see the actual Altar of Zeus, I did like looking at the scale model. It was fun to see where bits of the frieze have been discovered, not only in the front of the structure, but the back as well

 
The museum was full of a lot of various things that had been excavated in the area, including this statue of a hermaphrodite. It reminds me a little bit of the Allianoi Nymph.

 This "Medusa Mosaic" was excavated in the Lower City of Pergamon. Wouldn't you like something like this on your floor?

After all of those adventures, it was time to slowly head back home. We sat outside the archaeological museum for a bit, ate apricots from a tree in the museum's garden (which were handed to us by a security guard), and then we headed back to our hostel to get our things. We took a bus to Izmir, then flew from Izmir to Istanbul. We all tried to sleep in the airport for a few hours, before heading back.

Note my totally-awesome sleeping mask (I'm in the background, covering myself with a green sweater)

What a trip! I'm so glad that I was able to go on such an adventure with such dear friends. Who knows when we'll do a mega-trip like this again...maybe when we all turn forty?

1 Tevhit Kekeç, Pergamon (English), (Istanbul: Hitit Color, n.d.), 76.

Ephesus!

After leaving Patara Beach, my friends and I rode a bus for a few hours until we got to Selçuk (the modern city just outside the ancient city of Ephesus). We went for a walk that evening, and then went shopping for a few hours.

We went and looked around the courtyard of the Mosque of Isa Bey

Phin next to the field where the ancient Temple of Artemis used to be located. The Temple of Artemis was considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of the World by ancient writers. You can see the remaining column in the background. (After I got home, I wrote a little bit about the Temple of Artemis on my art history blog.)

Turkish rugs!


The next morning, we woke up early and went to Ephesus as soon as the grounds opened. The crowds were pretty light, at least for Ephesus.



 View of Ephesus with the Library of Celcus in the background. The library façade is the best-preserved architecture on the site.

 The British tourists who took this picture didn't make sure that the ruins were visible in the background. Oh well!

Detail of the coffered ceiling inside the Library of Celcus

The Temple of Hadrian


As we walked around the ruins, I was struck by all of the brightly-colored poppies that were growing among the ruins. I couldn't help but think about this new vibrant form of life was flourishing among the rubble of the past. It was a nice reminder about how life continues.

After seeing Ephesus, we went and visited the Basilica of Saint John. This church is the burial place of John the Evangelist. According to the historian Eusebios, John and Mary returned to Ephesus after being banished from Jerusalem between 37 and 42 CE. The site marks the place where St. John is buried. Although an Early Christian church was constructed in the 5th century at this site, the ruins that we saw there from a middle 6th century monumental basilica (which was constructed by Justinian). Some of the materials for the basilica were collected from the nearby ruins of the Temple of Artemis, which was largely demolished by that the time. So, in essence, we got to see some of the Temple of Artemis, albeit in a completely different form!


After seeing the basilica, my friends wanted to do a bit more shopping. I opted to go and visit the Ephesus Archaeological Museum instead, and I'm really really glad that I did. This museum was one of the highlights of my trip to Turkey. The museum houses two different ancient statues of Artemis as a fertility goddess. The statues have their own room in the museum: they are placed on two different walls, facing each other, with a model of the ancient Temple of Artemis in-between them. I was interested in seeing these statues, since I had done some research on them last year. There were some other interesting things in the collection, too.

The "Beautiful Artemis" statue, 2nd century (Hadrian period). Approx. 5' tall

 Detail of the "Beautiful Artemis." On the inner part of her necklace are Nikes, and a Zodiac belt with symbols on the outer part. Her arms are decorated with lions. On either side of her head are deer, which are the goddess' sacred animals.

 The "Great Artemis" statue, 1st century CE (Trajan period). Approx. 9' 6" tall

Model of the Temple of Artemis

Model of the Great Artemis statue, showing how a cult statue would have been located in the temple

These ionic capitals were flanked on both sides with the head of a bull. I've never seen anything like it before! 

I was struck by these two statues of Augustus and Livia, which were "Christianized" later (note the cross marks that are carved into their foreheads). These statues were found broken in a room of the basilica in the Upper Agora (Ephesus). The room was demolished during the Early Byzantine era, which is probably the same time that these statues were broken and "Christianized."

Detail of Statue of Augustus, c. 1st century AD


Detail of Statue of Livia, c. 1st century CE

Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Konya, Antalya, and Patara!

Upon leaving Cappadocia, my friends and I accelerated our travel pace for a few days. We took the bus to Konya for a quick trip, to visit the Shrine of Rumi. Rumi is known for establishing the Sufi order (with its distinctive whirling dervishes) and also his body of poetry. It was really crowded at the shrine, and I sometimes felt like I was being jostled through a sea of tourists.

This blue tiled roof is located over the tomb of Rumi

The gardens surrounding the shrine and tomb were quite charming, and seemed a little bit more Western than some of the other things we saw on our trip

After just a few hours in Konya, we headed back to the bus station to travel to Antalya. We arrived in Antalya fairly late at night, and had an interesting episode trying to communicate with a shuttle bus driver who didn't speak English. Nonetheless, we made it to our hostel. The next morning, Phin stayed at home to rest (she wasn't feeling too well), while Zillah, Ixoj and I went to explore for just an hour or two.

Underneath Hadrian's Gate in Antalya


The water was so clear and warm! We soaked our feet in the water for a few minutes, before going back to our hostel to pick up our suitcases.

After only a few hours in Antalya, we headed on another bus to Patara. We had toyed with the idea of visiting the beach in Patara before going to Turkey, but a strong recommendation from a restaurant owner in Cappadocia helped to seal the deal. I'm so glad that we went to Patara, too. This small town is supposed to be the birthplace of Saint Nicholas. The beach is absolutely gorgeous, and it wasn't too crowded. Plus, it was a fun beach to visit because there are a lot of ruins located near the beach, since Patara used to be the capital city of the Lycian League.


The theater dates back to the Hellenistic Period and was used until the 4th century AD

 
On our first night in Patara, we hiked up to the ruins of a Byzantine church and looked at the beach below. Here's a shot of Ixoj looking at the beach. 

We were supposed to stay in Patara for only a day and a half, but we quickly realized that we wanted to spend a little more time here. Plus, because of the bus schedule, we decided it would be better to stay a full day (instead of only staying at the beach for an hour or two). Phin still wasn't feeling well, so she decided to rest in our room. All in all, I think it was a smart move. Phin was feeling much better by the end of that day, and everyone else got to spend more time at the beach.
 
 The Mediterranean! This is one of the most beautiful beaches I have visited.


Our small pension (lodging) had these amazing grape vines growing over the dining area. 

One of my other highlights in Patara was getting to chat with Sam and J online. Although I got to chat with J a few times during my trip, I only got to chat with Sam once. Because of the time difference, he was usually asleep by the time I woke up. I decided to get up extra early one morning, so we could all chat together. It was really nice; by this time I had been gone for about a week and a half, and we really missed each other.